Visa: Got in Ziguinchor, Senegal. Possibly the easiest visa in the world. Bring one copy of passport and 20000CFA. Done in 10 minutes. We arrives at 10am.
Border: They did not stamp the carnet, saying we were tourists and they didn't need to. I would have preferred if they did as there were many police stops looking for our documentation from customs. I showed them the carnet anyway and as not one of them knew what it was, there were no problems. On leaving, several of the officials wanted 2000 CFA for stamping us out. There was a road tax of 5000 CFA which we were asked for many time.
Diesel: 650 CFA/L
Bissau: Almagui - Stayed in this hotel/restaurant/ run by a German man. Camped in the grounds, secure with use of toilet and shower. 5000 CFA 11.87832 -15.63910
Quilhemmel: Hotel de Mar Azul- Run by an italian couple , amazing grilled oysters. Parked within the hotel grounds with use of toilet and showers for pool. Only open Friday to Sunday. 5000 CFA 11.87268 -15.87585
Visa: None needed
Border: Stamped carnet no issues. No extra funds required at border
Insurance: Covered by carte brune
Other: Many, many police check points, looking at carnet, driving licence, insurance but never had to pay a bribe, despite probably 25 stops in one day!
Visa: No longer needed
Border: We crossed at Diamma. No extra funds required however they will not stamp your carnet at the border. They give you a pass for driving for 48 hours, and your carnet needs to be stamped in Dakar port. This is free and no hassle when you find the right office! On the way through to Dakar, we were stopped repeatedly for this to be checked and the fines, if caught after the 48 hours, are apparently steep! Location for Douane at the port is on Tracks for Africa,
Insurance: We bought insurance for every country in West Africa for two months for 70 Euro. There is a small shack behind the customs office where a very nice old man will give you this. It is a carte brune.
Diesel: 650 CFA/L
Saint Louis: Zebrabar - Well known overlanding spot with vaguely warm showers and nice Swiss owners. Set within a national park - relatively pricey as need to pay national park fees as well but a nice base with bar and restaurant.
Dakar: Hotel du Phare - Nice hotel 35000CFA for a large room with three beds and bathroom with hot water. Nice terrace up top - beware late night parties!
Lac Rose: Hotel la Calao - Good campsites, lots of mosquitos, lovely pool and bar, situated on the other side of the lake from big dunes. 9000 CFA 14.82987 -17.23179
Palmarin: Djidjak - Nice campsite run by French couple. Camping under big shady trees, walking distance to the beach with bar and restaurant with internet. 7000 CFA 14.02413 -16.76803
Ziguinchor: Camping Casamance - GPS W 16.248.50 N 12.570.75. Nice campsite in a run down town, good base for visas and going in Guinea Bissau. Cold showers. 7000 CFA
Tambaconda : Oasis - stayed in the car park for a hotel with use of shower and toilet for pool. Safe. 7500 CFA. 13.77423 -13.69258
Kedougou: Relais de Kedougou - Allowed to camp in the car park with use of toilets. No shower. 5000CFA. Excellent internet. 12.54968 -12.18420
Visa: Got this visa at the border. Cost 120 Euro each. No hassle, nothing required. The rumour is that this will decrease back to 50 Euro soon however, not sure if that is true or not.
Border: We crossed from Morocco to Mauritania. On the Moroccan side, we arrived at 11am. There was no one if front of us and we were through in half an hour. No extra payments required. On the Mauritanian side, first our vehicle was registered and then we got our visas. We then through customs where they required vehicle documentation, a photocopy of James passport as he owns the car and a copy of our vehicle registration. This cost 10 euro – they gave change, no receipt however we received an official looking document for 7 days driving in Mauritania. We then had our passports stamped and we were off. The whole experience took an hour and a half and was quite pleasant.
Fuel: Diesel 389 UM / L.
Nouadhibou: Chez Ali, otherwise known as Camping de Baie Levrier. Right in the centre, with a blue gate. Hot showers, bathrooms passable, nice big tent to sit out of the midday sun and eat dinner in with cushions. Ali was extremely helpful. 4500 UM
Banc D’Arguin: Cap Tagarif – camped on the beach, no bathrooms as far as we could see, villagers not particularly friendly. 3000 UM. Iwit – villagers much more friendly, compost toilet, no showers. 4000UM + 1000UM Parking
Nouakchott: Auberge Menata – Good location, nice bathrooms, hot showers, quite busy. 4000 UM.
Agadir: Sidi Wassai Camping – about an hour south of Agadir. On the sea with camping right next to the sea costing an extra 10 Dh. Hot showers, nice staff, no complaints.
Tan Tan: Atlantic Camping just on the beach. Hot showers and a nice view in the morning. The plot was more like a building site than a campsite but did the job. 65 Dh
Boujdour: Desert Sands Camping – Very smart camping site located near the coast. Wifi, no hot water at the time we went. There were little bungalows if you’re getting fed up with camping. 65 Dh for camping and 200Dh for the lovely bungalows.
Dakhla – We stayed in an incredible guest house called Dar Rio Oro in Dakhla on the sea front. They did our washing for us for free, excellent breakfasts up on the terrace and gave us a plethora of places to go and eat and see in Dakhla. Very friendly, highly recommended. 380 Dh. We spent a lot of time looking around, There are many places for a lot of money which look beautiful and then there is the wild camping site with many campervans. There are no toilets or showers there so not ideal if you don’t have a campervan, but it is free as far as we could figure out.
Diesel – 4Dh / L. Last petrol station 80km before border. Able to get fuel about every 100km.
Required approximately 10 fisches throughout Western Sahara,
Visa : Before arrival we had been told to get our visa for Mauritania in Rabat. The day before we went, we called and they told us they no longer do visas in Rabat and to get it at the border. This was corroborated by some other overlanders who had just gone through the border and got their Mauritanian visa for the princely sum of 120 Euro. It seems they like to have Euros rather than their own currency.